Showdown in Antica Drogheria

Like many shops in the old center of Varese, La Drogheria is a throwback. A small place, it sells a selection of gourmet specialties from all over Italy, has a nice selection of wine and grappa, and, also things like soap and brooms and so on. Dark wood, musty, friendly older staff. Reminds me of Vobbe's back on Cherry Street in the 50s.

A week ago we went with Ezio and Virginia to a restaurant that specializes in food from Valtellina, a valley at the very top of Lake Como. Lots of game, cheese, buckwheat, different than most Italian food we've tried (I don't think there's a single dish with tomato to be seen or tasted). And very good wine from the region.

I turns out Valtellina is producing a lot of Nebbiolo, the grape that is made into Barolo and Barbaresco - the great wines of Piedmont, the next province west of here, across Lago Maggiore. Like the Pinot Noir that is grown in Oregon, Nebbiolo is supposed to be very "difficult", meaning it requires just the right combination of soil, climate and treatment on the vine and while making the wine. There are just a few wineries making it in the U.S., and only 3% of the plantings in Piedmont are Nebbiolo.

I remembered the name of the wine and asked the lady - I think she's the owner - at La Drogheria, and asked her. . .

"Do you have any of the Nino Negri wines from Valtellina."

"Of course, sir."

"Any of the Nebbiolos?"

"Ah, no, sir, Nebbiolo, is exclusively grown in Piedmont. It is the typical grape of Piedmont. Anyone who tells you otherwise is not telling you the truth."

"But, I just had some the other night at a restaurant and I'm quite certain. . ."

"Sir, someone could also tell you that they have Nebbiolo from Napoli, but that doesn't mean it's true." (Turning to other customers). "Nebbiolo from Valtellina!" Then she said the older Italian person equivalent of "As if!"

Now, I'm not so arrogant as to believe I couldn't be confused about certain details about Italian œnoculture. But I checked with Ezio (he was there at dinner, remember), on numerous web sites, and went back to the restaurant with Becky and Gino.

Vindictive? Certainly not! Am I thinking about whether to and how to break the news to the lady who dissed me in public? Absolutely!